The diaries in this blog were written by my father Aidan, who traveled Europe with my mother Eileen after they both retired from teaching in 1977. Dad sometimes traveled with my mother Eileen and sometimes alone, and rarely booked anything ahead. No internet, no mobile phones, no car, these were the days of real travel. Aidan and Eileen are no longer with us but I'm sure they would not mind me sharing these diaries with family. The text has been transcribed from the diaries and the photos were taken at varying times during their travels..The diaries Aidan's letters home.
Letter 1 Empoli
Friday 2/5/80
My dear Eileen,
The trip over went quite well. There were several delays, but they didn't worry me much, and although I was tired, I felt OK.
I needn't have hurried, as it turned out the taxi only took 65 mins (cost $16-20) so I had plenty of time to fill in, but the time passed easily enough. I walked around the place, watched them towing a few planes into position, read the Herald and had a cup of coffee. When they called us into the departure lounge, there was no queue, so I pushed in like everyone else, got near the top of the line an had an aisle seat in a non smoking part. They booked seats then, not when you checked your baggage in earlier, as most of the other lines do. We were due to leave at 6:30 but there was no move then and no announcement. I was talking to an Italian while waiting, and he went up and found out that there was a refuellers strike. We eventually took of at 8:30. The stop in Sydney was cut out, so they flew passengers from there down by TAA and they boarded with us.
Out of all the passengers, I only saw 2 who were not Italian - and they were both married to Italians. I was another one of course, because the chap I was talking to obviously new that I was an Australian and wondered why I was going to Rome. He was taking his son, about 16, for his first trip there. The other son was doing an apprenticeship and the parents were not taking any chances that he would lose it. Later on, in the plane, he passed me and greeted me like a long lost brother. Of course there could have been other Australians there, because there were about 350 people in the lounge, but I did not notice any.
On the plane I sat next to an Italian man about my age who was going back to Venice for about 6 months. He had obviously been in Australia for a good time and spoke good English, as did nearly everyone else on board. He was pretty quiet and slept a lot, but we did some talking - he was quite friendly.
You need have no worries about the glamorous hostesses. There were more stewards than - esses, and the latter must have been chosen for their efficiency. The service was quite good, the food - Italian - was very good. My only drawback was that I probably ate the dishes in the wrong order because I could not recognize most of them. As an example - of the food I mean, because I recognize all of these - for breakfast we had orange juice, if you wanted it, then fruit salad, omelet, champignons, roll, croissants, marmalade with tea or coffee or milk. I skipped one meal except for coffee and a roll, and sometimes I would skip one dish, but I ate plenty without over doing it. I had only a small bottle of wine - what the French used to call "un quart" - I finished the trip healthy, even tho' tired.
We landed in Rome about 12, I got a trolley, my case was one on the last onto the carousel, and I walked through customs unchecked. (Needless to say the trolley - the fourth one I tried - turned out to be so bad that I had to pull it instead of pushing) Carol & Riccardo were immediately outside the door, the car, borrowed from R's Aunt, was about 20 metres away, and we set off straight away. It took about 3 hours and we stopped for something to eat on the way. I slept in the back of the car for about 40 minutes.We were all tired, because Carol & Ricardo had been up early for the trip, so we were all in bed by 9:30, having gone out for tea to a pizzeria. It was a public holiday here, and shops including some eating places, were closed.
I am sorry about the 2am phone call, put it down to the famous jet lag. I worked it out it would be 2 o'clock there, assumed the afternoon, and went ahead because I thought you would still not have gone for your nap. I hope it did not wake you up, because you had your trip the next day. When you get this, of course you will be back home, I hope it went well, and that you are feeling at your top.
I feel OK today, slept until 8:30 and have been sitting round talking to Carol most of the morning (Friday). When I finish this I am going for a short walk around the block - the other 2 are having their usual siesta. Ricardo doesn't work today, and Carol not until tonight.
The weather today is about 18°, and looks as if it could rain. It was very brown and dry looking coming into Athens, but the country all around Rome was very green. Carol's house (or flat, unit or whatever) is very good, bigger than I expected. It has only 1 bedroom, but it and the other 2 rooms and entrance hall are all big, and 2 rooms have balconies. The kitchen is small but big enough and there is a pantry. Bathroom
is quite large too. It is a little like the studio in Avignon in that the outside is old original, the inside quite modern although older that Le S. The room below Carol told you about is as big as the top rooms, and also has a balcony, but I have abed in the dining room. I feel quite rested now, although it may catch up with me later as it did in Melbourne last time. They say the effects are less coming this way than returning, so I am hoping.
The only thing that seems to be missing is the receipt for Carol's Degree. I had it out ready to bring so it should be easy to find. You had better sign it and send it off I think.
Carol was very interested in the photos, and has taken the warping directions. Very interested in Gwen's engagement too. Needless to say the teapot has already been polished and is ready for use. Apart from x-raying the flight bag I had no customs check and could have brought anything into the country. Carol had 2 shirts waiting for me so I should be right now. Carol sends her love, and and hoped you are enjoying Mildura. It is now 10:30 pm on Friday the 2nd in Mildura, so you have just arrived and settling in. As I have been here only 26 hours, there is no news, but I shall write later on when things start moving.
Love, Aidan
and give my love to all
the children & grandchildren.
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Letter 2 Empoli
Sunday 4/5/80
My Dear Eileen
For the first 2 days here I took things quietly, walking around the locality and shopping with Carol. We went into one shop and the grocer immediately said to Carol "Is that your father?" and when she said it was, he remarked "That's easy to see". He did not know I was coming over, but this morning someone came in and I heard him say to Carol, " Is your father here?" and came in to meet me. All here friends are quite interested in my arrival. Empoli is a pretty drab, uninteresting place, but it much bigger than I expected - 56,000 people. The country round about is hilly, farmland mostly. I have always read of the cypresses in Italy, and sure enough they are everywhere. Olive trees are also plentiful, pruned hard, some of them very old. All the roads are good.
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| Aidan in Empoli |
The traffic is as bad as we have read about. I have come to the conclusion that fortunately the driver know what they are doing, but it is hard on the pedestrian. There are a couple of pedestrian crossings about, without lights, but all it means is that drivers are not allowed to hit you while you are on them, they don't have to stop if they can squeeze through. if you stop or hesitate or lose your nerve , drivers toot and abuse you. There are no large cars.
Today was a big day, Ricardo is captain, coach of a local basketball team and today was the last match for the season. They played A.M. at Scandicci about 15-20 kms away. Most games are played on indoor courts but the Scandicci team doesn't have one, so the game was played on an outside concrete one. With 35 seconds to go we were one goal behind, and scored to even the game. The umpire called a foul and disallowed the goal, and then time was up. For 15 minutes the arguments raged between the umpire and the goal thrower. Ricardo kept out of it, and even dragged off one player who was becoming a bit heated. Carol said that it was not as serious as it looked, but it was certainly entertaining. I am no expert on men's basketball rules, but I think the umpire robbed Empoli right through the game. Fortunately Ricardo just takes it as it comes, so we were not dragged into it. After the game (there were 5 in the team) and their wives or girlfriends all went up to the "country cottage" and had a big lunch on the terrace, went for a long walk and thoroughly enjoyed themselves. We left up there at 8 o'clock. It gets dark about 8:30 which is normally the time for the evening meal. The main meal is in the day. The cottage, although small, is very good with a large terrace or patio at the back overlooking a valley of olive trees. Ricardo helps the owner with the grapes and olives, and to make the wine. In return he gets his years supply of olive oil and wine, with the added satisfaction of having produced them himself. There are hundreds of palish mauve irises growing wild along the roads and in the fields near the cottage, and Carol tells me that they are the ones that supply the orris root. Certainly the scent of the flowers resembles that of orris root.
The TV is full of mostly American films and series, dubbed in Italian. The TV guide covers about 30 stations, all of which we can't get here, but on one day they tested Million Dollar Man, The Doris Day Show, Love Boat, Space War, Charlie's Angels, Laramie and The Mayor of Casterbridge.
Ricardo is very pleasant. He obviously thinks the world of Carol, and is very considerate of and helpful to her. He has made me very welcome, and as he had a little English - much more than my Italian - we are able to talk a little. Tonight he and Carol have gone to a film. Films start here at 10 o'clock but they show only one, so finish about midnight. (I just thought of this. What is the name of "Old Faithful", not the Fuchsia but that low growing plant, favored by snails, which grows very easily. We once had it somewhere but not at Herbert St. Carol has some growing at San Romolo (the cottage) and wondered what is was. Big leaves, pink flowers, low growing.
Tuesday 6th
Today Carol and I went to Pisa by train - about 35mins. We can walk to the station from here, although Ricardo drove us up. The trains are much like the French - maybe better. Pisa was, of course, crawling with tourists, including me. The square which contains that famous tower, the Cathedral and the Baptistry (with some wonderful carved fonts and a pulpit) is reached by a bus which leaves from the station. The tower is better than I thought it would be, because when you see it, it is so obviously worth visiting apart from the lean. Opposite the buildings, the streets are lined with souvenir sellers, who got none of my lire.Do you remember how they were at La Source.They are thicker here. In the base of the tower they sell horrible models of it including some about 40-50cm high with a light inside. The square is green grass, and the three buildings are white and this helps to show them off.
The Arno river flows through the middle of the town, although away from the tower. The Cathedral was not open, reason unknown, but I am going back later, as there is still plenty to see.
Several places, Pisa, Lucca (home of the famous Carrara marble) Siena, Livorno as well as Florence are an easy train ride from here. Even Venice is only 3 hours away ($15 return 2nd class)
I don't remember whether I told you this or not, the day after I arrived Carol polished the teapot, and it is now in daily use. The spinning wheel is sitting up in full view too.
Wednesday 7th
Today we went to Florence, Ricardo teaches there Wed. mornings and usually goes by train. Today they were picking up some things in F. so he took the van and Carol & i went with him. We walked around looking at the sights until lunchtime, when we met Ricardo and ate at a cafe run by friends of theirs. I left them then, by choice, to get a bit of practice in getting around by myself, and came home by train. I found the town very interesting, and have to go back of course, because there is still plenty I could not see today. It was drizzling rain most of the day, but was not cold. I saw an advertisement outside a small theatre for the play of Agatha Cristie, The Mouse Trap (which they call Three Grey Mice) the one that ran in London for something like 25 years - maybe it is still going.
In Pisa and also in Florence, you keep running into school groups as we did in Avignon. I don't know if that is normal or if it now the season. Agatha Christie again - there was a film with a name something like The Unexpected Visitor on TV last night, and it was Italian, not English, from one of her stories.
After all the churches we saw in France and England, you would think that I would be sick of them, but they always interest me - perhaps because they have been the focal points on the towns for so long and (in the past at least) they have been an accepted part of everyday living for generations. The ones in this area are not Gothic, but are a style of their own. I think they are much better than the French - more open, airier and lighter, and not so oppressive. The stained glass windows have to be seen to be believed.
Carol and Ricardo are both flat out. The main trouble is that they work irregular hours & places and always seem to be on the go. There is a market in Empoli tomorrow, and Carol and I are going to have a look at it, but there is no need to tell you that she has been before - often.
The friends who run the cafe (where the food was very good) also run a sort of co-operative travel agency, so we will be able to get information from them. They seem to be pretty close.
Carol sends her love, and hope your visit to Mildura was enjoyable, as do I. Let me know about it.
Love Aidan
P.S You will be pleased to know that today I stopped a man in the street and said " Excuse me, can you tell me the way to the station?" I knew it would be useful, he understood me too!
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Letter 3 Empoli
Friday 9/5/80
My dear Eileen,
Today we went to the country at San Romolo, the "cottage". Ricardo does not work toady, and Carol not until 9pm. The weather has not been cold, but has been mostly overcast with patches of rain and sun, but today was the real thing - warm and sunny but not hot. Ricardo worked on the grape. After the harvest the vines are cut back to 2 leaders, and, in the spring when these start to shoot, they have to be tied to the wired that run the length of the rows. To tie them they use that plastic strip with the wire through it that I use in the garden and for the rubbish bags.
Carol checked her seeds, which she brought from Aus and planted there. They are all growing, and the peas & beans are about 30cm high. Shae and I went for a walk through the vine yards and olives. Many of the weeds are the same as we have at home, rye grass, marshmallow and enormous docks which have leaves as big as tennis racquets. Carol picked a bunch of wild flowers, about 8 different sorts which were big enough and pretty enough to have been grown in any garden. I took a little gentle exercise, and sat in the sun. We lunched on the terrace overlooking the vines which produced the wines we were drinking.
Scatere around are several figs, cherries, pears, almonds, hazelnuts and a loquat tree. In the garden of the owner there was a snake plant, and a rose with old fashioned looking flowers, with a strong, very "rosy" scent, ideal for pot potpourri. The house - the cottage, not the owners house - is built on road level, but because of the slope, there are three rooms underneath. These have not yet been fixed up and are only used for storage. They open off the terrace. Yesterday was market day in Empoli. There are 2, on different squares, one for fruit and vegetables, where C bought some strawberries, the other has everything it seems. I bought a pair of shoes, and just in time. One the same day my others split across the sole.
Being with Carol most of the time, I have not had to do much myself, but so far I have asked directions, bought coffee and snacks, stamps, and a guide book, some post cards and answered the phone to someone who spoke no English. I was able to take the message and give it to Ricardo. I have also rang up Carol from a public phone, but that is the same at home except that you don't use money, but buy a tokes which you put in the slot. The first night I was in Empoli, I saw a flock of sheep (right in the town) which had just been shorn, but looked black. There were 40-50 of them, with horns, but all ewes in milk. They are the ones used for sheep's milk cheese. The sheep dog had a busy time of it, because while hunting up his charges he had to keep one eye on the cars. Petrol here is 70c a litre - about $3.15 a gallon and the tourist concession no longer applies, so a car is a real luxury, not to be used lightly.
Saturday 10th
I went down to the photographic shop today, left a film to be developed, and bough a new one, asking the woman to change the one she had offered for a longer one. I still don't know any more Italian, but I am learning to make the most use of the few words I do know. Pointing is also a big help. A lot of the bars here have a system where yo take a paper serviette from a dispenser, pick up your own cake of tart or whatever (usually from a very wide range) and then order your coffee. It saves a lot of words, ideal for foreigners.
This afternoon Carol and I went to a small place not far from here called San Miniato. Ricardo drove is there, and we came home by bus. It took about 30 minutes. The town is small and built on a ridge, so there are views down into the valleys on all sides. We climbed a tower, the remains of a 12th century castle, to see even farther. The walls of the tower are 2-3 metres thick, very solid and well preserved. We went into the cathedral, which has a most unusual (and I thought, beautiful) ceiling with painted panels (pictures I mean) surrounded by gold leaf ornamentation. We met the priest in charge (a monsignor I think, the place isn't large enough to run to a bishop) who was surprised to meet 2 Australians, remarked on our resemblance, and told us a story involving the Germans and the Americans during the war. The town is hilly with large amounts of cobbled paving that looks as old as the tower, and several tunnel-like lanes through buildings. The whole thing, though small, was very interesting. It is now 6 o'clock on Sunday morning, your time, so I suppose you are preparing for Janine's arrival, if she did not come of the Saturday. Don't forget to tell me all about Mildura, and how you feel after your little holiday.
Sunday 11th
The Italians don't print in the papers the death notices, or "thank you" notices relating to deaths. Instead, they have posters printed - they are standard size & the wording is much the same as in ours - and have them pasted up around the town. There might be only one on a bare patch of wall, or a couple of different ones,, or I have seen 12-14 in one group (all different people) Today I was having a walk around Empoli, and saw a little man with his paste-pot putting one up. They are about 30 x 40cm.
We went to Lucca today, Ricardo, Carol and I and 2 other couples. One of them is in his final year as an architect, and new the town and it's history very well and acted as a guide. The town was originally Roman, and a Medieval town was built over it.. Where the amphitheater was, they left the central circular area as it was, and built houses incorporating the rows of seats. The houses are 3 or 4 stories high, and circular front and back. In the back walls can be seen the arches of the old Roman building, and the four tunnel entrances are still there, the houses being built over and around them. This is now the poorest part of the town. A group of 8-10 women were sitting in the sun playing tombola, which is bingo.
Later during the Renaissance, the rest of the town was built, and remains today much as it was then. Very fine buildings, very clean,and as today was Sunday, the traffic, both motor and pedestrian, was much less than usual. I have read that it is the best preserved Renaissance town in Italy, possibly Europe. It is surrounded by a wall, still in perfect condition, and extending right around the town. It is so wide that it carries a roadway with 2 way traffic, with a walkway alongside that is nearly as wide.
I think today is Mothers' Day and I hope you had a happy one.
Monday 12th
I was disappointed to miss your phone call but glad to hear your trip went well. I haven't really had all your news yet, because when I came home at 7 o'clock Carol had gone to work, and she left a note. I'll get the rest of it when she get home about 9, and I am looking forward to it.
You know that I went back to Florence today, and I found a great deal of interest there. The Palazzo Vecchio (old) was the centre of government in Renaissance time and it is now a museum. At the moment there is an exhibition of things connected with the Medicis- pictures, armor, sculptures etc. It was written up in the Age just before I came away so you may have seen it. There are some rooms, including a small chapel and a large hall, and as big as a small church covered, both walls and ceilings, with paintings. But I think the things that would have interested you most were the tapestries. There must be over 100, a few about 1 1/2 metres square, but most about 6 metres x 8. They all show events in the lives of the Medici, and are worked in the finest detail. They look like all the world like paintings. They average I gather about 500 years old, i intended to stay only a short time there but spent more time than I expected.
Then I went (again) to the Santa Croce Church. It is very big and open inside, and has monuments to various identities ranging from Dante to Rossini to Machiavelli, also one of the minor Buonapartes. Set into the floor are the gravestones of members of the old nobility, with some brass coats of arms inserted. From there I walked over the Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in the town, with buildings on it as there were on the bridge at Bath. These, however, are three stories high and surmounted by a covered passageway connecting two palaces, the Uffizi and the Pitti, it has always been the centre for the gold - and silver smiths, and still is. There were beautiful pieces in the windows, big and small and all unpriced. I lacked the courage to go in and ask.
I had lunch overlooking the river (the Arno, the same as Empoli is on) and then walked to the Piazzale Michelangelo, which is terraced live the gardens in Avignon near the church - do you remember walking up those ramps? It is about 10 times as big, and when I got to the top, there was along flight of stairs leading to a church. I gave up - it was one church too many. There is a bus from there to the station, but I could not find it amongst all the tourist buses,so walked part of the way back, and then took a taxi. I first nailed him on the price - $2, cheaper than at home.
On the way home, the train broke down. My train conversation deals with singles and returns, how long, how much, and where is the ticket office, breakdowns are beyond me. I asked someone who told me the train was "fermato" which I took to be broken, and didn't think was much help. When I got home the dictionary told me the train had stopped! It got going again in 1/2 an hour. I will finish this letter now and get your news when Carol comes home. I am looking forward to hearing it.
Love Aidan
The Last 3-4 days have had ideal weather.
4 Thursday 15th May
Milan
My dear Eileen,
Well, I celebrated my fortnight anniversary over here by cutting myself from Carol's apron strings and branching out on my own. But I have to admit to Carol's help. She rang up 2 days ago and booked me into a pensione here(I got the number out of "Let's Go") and went with me to the tourist place to get my ticket. Ricardo teaches in Empoli today so was nearby (some of the time he's in Florence) and he set his class a long problem in maths and rushed down to drive me to the station, he had to go back straight away, of course, but Carol stayed until the train went. So I can't claim total independence. While waiting, she met the doctor who organised everything for her while she was in hospital. He has a little English, and we exchanged a few sentences. He seems a nice fellow. I travelled in real luxury, 1st class express. It only stopped at Bologna. Because of the telephone booking , I had to get here by about 3, and the only 2 trains with 2nd class, my usual standard. arrived late or meant a 5am start. This one, air conditioned and with a public telephone on board was tike sitting in the lounge at home. You could sleep the whole way without any trouble if you wanted to. The train climbs through what must be mountains (they seen too high for hills) and there was a thin mist until we started descending, when the sun came out. However it is now drizzling, but not cold. I don't have a jumper, only a jacket.
When I got off the train, I asked a taxi driver how much to get here, and he said $10, so I caught a tram - yes, tram, they are few and far between these days, except in Melbourne. I knew which tram, again from Let's Go, and new where to get off, same source. A few inquiries on the tram and I was right. I had a bit of a job finding the place once I was in the the street, and had to ask about 3 people, but I was on the right path all the way and did not have to retrace any steps. The Italians are absolutely hopeless at numbering places, and not much better at marking streets. I got to the pensione about 3. The old dear who runs it doesn't know one word of English & calls me Signor Australiano, although she though Leonardo was good.
I didn't dare explain that I never used the name. She knows my Italian is practically none existent, but she just talks to me and won't slow down. Strangely enough, when I dredge up a few words - for instance when I want to know about breakfast - she understands without much trouble. Perhaps because it is related to her job as Padrona.
There is a bar opposite, where I just had a light meal, topped off by a roll and 2 cups of coffee for $3. The place is right in the heart of town. Tonight I am in a double ($11) because there was no single, but tomorrow I move into a single ($7.50) This room is about 20" x 14" with a window opening onto the street and parquetry floor. No toilet or shower of course, but a hand basin with H&C, and toilets & bath or shower just down the corridor. It is 3 floors up, so not much noise come in, and there is a lift. In Via Dante - what better! Earlier, when I was walking along the street, I came on an auction of pictures - prints or the real thing I don't know. It was first brought to my attention by the auctioneers spiel - you could not mistake that it was just that, without understanding a word. I watched for a few minutes, and I am certain that he was trying to raise the last bids, without success. It was all so familiar.
Coming into Milan, we passed enormous high rise blocks, of either homes or offices, probably the former. Large areas were razed during the war by allied bombers, and a large amount of rebuilding has taken place since then. These blocks would leave our Housing Commission ones for dead. This morning I parted from a faithful friend & I threw away my Pommie shoes. After close on 3 years, & and a cost of ten dollars, no one could complain. They have never been resoled, and even now they are not worn out, but one sole split right across. I hung onto them for a few days, until my new ones were broken in. They now are, but will never last as long as the others & cost more.
On Wednesday afternoon, we visited Ricardo's father and 2 aunts, who live together, not far away. Ricardo has been putting it off since I came, and insisted on them not setting up a formal reception with all the silver and best china. We were there for about 1/2 hoar, and I found it quite interesting. The older sister in 76, and a real live wire, and would run Ricardo's life if he let her. She insisted on Carol telling me that Ricardo had a share in the family home and that there was not need for him to dress like a Gypsy - he was wearing good jeans & one of those blue check Chinese shirts bought in Australia. She also said Carol & I were very alike - apparently the Italians are keen, not only on noting resemblances, but commenting on them. They also asked how old I was and how much I weighed, showed me round the house, and made me very welcome. The older one did not approve of me sleeping on the stretcher - which is very comfortable, and in which I sleep like a log _ and said that I should have had the bedroom at Busoni,and they could have slept at the Aunt's place, which has 3 bedrooms.
Friday 16th
I rang Carol up tonight, to tell her of my safe arrival. There are few public telephone boxes in Italy, but many bars have public telephones. The bars are the same as in France, they sell coffee and snacks more than alcohol. I found a fruit shop this evening and bought some bananas to make me feel at home. All shops except food shops close at 1 o'clock, open again from about 4:30 to 8:30 p.m.
When I rang the other night you sounded quite chirpy, so I hope that is so, and that your holiday did you good. I suppose it is getting a bit colder now, so the heating will be appreciated. Don't get too busy to write to me, as I have not heard from you so far and I miss it.
Did Patricia remember about my pottery?
I decided that I would never mention another church to you again, as you must be bored to tears by them now, but I must break the rules for the Duomo here. (All the towns have a Duomo and a Piazza del Duomo, because the word means Cathedral) This one has more of everything, and although statistics don't mean much, I must give you some - taken from the guide book, because I certainly didn't count everything. It was begun in 1386, and was about 400 years building. It is almost impossible to find a square metre of wall, inside or out, which is not carved. It is nor as open as many churches I have seen lately, but is more in the Gothic style inside, and has not the usual 2 rows of pillars, but four - 52 of them, It also has more than the usual amount of stained glass. It will hold 40,000 people, nearly half as many as can fit into the Melb. Cricket ground. It has 2245 statues, 135 spires, 96 gargoyles. The ceiling is 157 feet high. There is a lift to reach the roof. You would have to agree that all that justifies breaking my self imposed rule.
