Wednesday 4-5-1977
To Sydney by TAA DC9 which was nearly empty, stayed Wyndham Travelodge.
Thursday 5/5
Chateau Commodore, Pott's Point ($45) Stayed until Monday.
Monday 9/5
Casa del Sol serviced apartments ($130 week) 19-21 Billyard Ave, Elizabeth Bay. Ph.358-2511 Stayed here until Saturday 14th.
Friday 13/5
Air Controllers strike announced over about 5. Rang U.T.A - no flight until June 11.
Saturday 14/5
Went to UTA at 8.30, and managed to persuade fellow there to make a real effort to get us off fairly soon. He was on phone till 11 o'clock (from about 9.30) and eventually got us on a flight that evening. Left at 9.30 by Thai International Airline (DC8) to Bangkok.
Sunday 15/5
After Singapore stop arrived Bangkok about 9.30. Had booked into Montien Hotel, went there, slept until about 1 o'clock. Hotel air-conditioned and very luxurious; filled with French speaking guests; and nearly as many Thai porters, door men etc.
Went for a walk in afternoon, very hot tho' not as humid as Singapore, which was like a sauna. Bought a few small things - scarf, handkerchiefs etc. of batik or Thai silk.
On way from airport, good part of road lined with pools of water covered in water lilies. In one, woman washing clothes. Alongside streets, women sitting peeling vegetables, close to large European buildings. Thais extremely polite, and some extremely insistent on our using their services (although still polite when knocked back)
At 7 o'clock picked up by taxi and went to airport (Trip arranged by tourist organization at airport on arrival) Notice of curfew from 12 to 5am. Airport filled with people of various races, as several flights due out. Bangladesh Airways was one, and its patrons were easily picked out - about 50 or so, sitting beside a pile of varied types of shoes.Practically every Thai group was busy being photographed by friends of relations.
About 9.30, loaded onto Air France 747, which had a good number of empty seats. Had a window seat, very comfortable. Landed at Delhi (didn't leave plane) where every seat was filled. Empty seat next to us was taken by an English engineer David Buckley from Gloucestershire. A pleasant fellow, invited us to call when in England. Landed at Karachi and Teheran & not leaving plane)
Monday 16/5
Landed Charles de Gaulle about 9 am. Took bus to Paris then Taxi to Gare de Lyons, where we took train to Sens. We were lucky, only waited about 20 minutes, and train ran express to Sens, about 1 hour. took taxi to Bvd de la Liberte' were Noel was somewhat surprised when he opened the door. Same applied to Rill when she came home from school.
Tuesday, Wednesday 17-18/5
Saw something of Sens. Weather is much better that we were led to believe, is quite pleasant, in fact, house is very good and maid centre is within walking distance - about as far a Mt. Wav' (less) Streets are narrow and footpaths even narrower. Some building date back 3-400 years, although shop fronts have been built under. Cathedral built by same builder / architect who built Canterbury Cathedral. Old town wall has been removed/ not to sure when, but probably 1900-20, and area planted as park. A few parts have been retained and date back a very long way by the look of them. Near the town is "Caesars Camp" said to be the site of a camp during his campaign, when Sens was capital of Gaul. Eileen takes a very poor view of the school system because hours are 8-6 with 2 hours for lunch. 3 months holiday in summer, and various church feasts during the year Easter, Ascension, All Saints etc. In schools as in parks, it seems that grass is not to be walked on.
Shops open for more for customer convenience than in A. One surprise was to see shops dealing solely in horse meat for human consumption. in the Post Office, each person deals with only one aspect of the work (as in banks) If you have more that one matter to attend to, you progress to another attendant. Garbage collected every day except Sunday. Bread (beautiful!) baked twice a day.
Noel & Rill went to Paris Wed P.M. to meet early arrival tomorrow - friend from A who will be staying with them. Coming back Frid or Sat, so Eileen & I are here alone.
Not used to lond evening - still light at 10pm.
Thursday 19th
We walked about the town window shopping. Most shops closed (Ascension Day) Went to cathedral built 13th - 16th century. Very high, large number of fine stained glass windows. A museum of items dating back to 10th century - vestments, chalices, crosses etc. (Wall previously mentioned is dated 13th century)
Yesterday, one street was closed off. Shops bought goods into the street. Twice a week open air market is held in square opposite cathedral. One tower odd cathedral is being repaired by government, as building is considered a national monument.
Friday, Saturday 20 - 21st May
Went to market Friday - many sellers in food market obviously off the farm - some with very little to sell. According to Noel, most prices are higher than at super market.
Very few dogs on street, and all on leads. Apparently they are very strict about it, because there are no loose dogs anywhere.
On TV, about 10 ads one after the other (appear shorter than in Aus) but none during show. Watched Barber of Seville for more than 2 hours, and no more ads until it was over. This applies to all shows. Noel & Rill returned Saturday with Paddy just in from Aus.
Sunday 22nd
Eileen unwell. i went to mass at Eglise Saint - Pregts (18th century) which is just round the corner in Rue du General de Gaulle. Full house, with late comers standing at the back and discussing their days affairs in a normal speaking voice - no attempt to whisper. Choir and organ, Alter Boys white robes, like monks. Went for a walk in the afternoon through the back streets of the shopping area. Old, lived-in looking houses, winding streets , constant changes of name, very very few people (Sunday) Crossed bridge to island, but didn't go far.
Window boxes very popular - the most popular plant being the old geranium. lawns not used - pebbled often used. Lawns in parks and schools but not to be walked on / very strictly applied.
Mopeds everywhere, ridden by old and young, male & female. No license, registration or helmet required.
Monday 23rd May
Eileen went to doctor - alone - & discussed symptoms in French.
Tuesday 24th
Noel took us for a drive. Went thro' several small villages - houses built right to the edge of the road, each village dominated by a church. Countryside vividly green - all new growth of coarse since winter, which is probably why it seams so much fresher than Aus. growth. Warmest day we have had so far. Unexpected is the amount of woods - not forest, but growth along side country roads - and the sound of birds. Much more uncleared land than I expected (France is less densely populated than other European countries)
General strike today to protest against government austerity campaign. No papers, power off part of time, no trains etc. Although large shops closed, no difficulty getting food, as all small shops open. Very many small individual shops here, and these open as they see fit, there are some chains but not as many as in Aus. Schools also closed, as they apparently usually are in such cases.
Rill's house pretty full, with them, us, Paddy and Jean Francois, a Vietnamese who is staying a few days.
Wednesday 25 - Friday 27/5/77
In Sens - Eileen recovering, doing a bit of walking around town. Game enough to go into a few shops and talk to the natives with my accent.
Saturday 28/5
Left at 1.30 for Avignon by train. Very fine weather and a v. interesting trip (first class was F380 the two). You certainly see the country, and the villages and small towns. Still surprised at the amount of "wood" - uncleared land. The sandstone (if that's what it is) is prevalent right down to the south - used not only for the older buildings but new ones as well as retaining walls for railway cuttings and bridges etc. Practically nothing else used. Trains are very good - clean, fast and comfortable. Ran almost express to Lyon, then stopped all stations to Avignon. from Lyon we had the compartment to ourselves.
Arrived at Avignon and found the place booked out - according to a taxi driver it is always booked out completely from May to September. Drove to Cavaillon, about 25kms away and got the last vacancy in the Cristal Hotel.
Sunday 28/5/77
Booked in for two more nights (thanks to cancellation) On the Durance river, which is quite broad, and we are down stream (distance unknown) from a hydro electric set up.
Walked into the tow a couple of kilometers. Bars every 20 metres, traffic quite heavy (holiday weekend) any more newer buildings than in Sens, broader streets. Local industry seems to be fruit and vegetable growing.
Monday 30/5
We walked around Cavaillon. saw the cathedral - unused, very old, gradually decaying. It would be older than Sens's - seems to have almost Moorish influence. There are a couple of old churches & a Roman arch, none of which we saw, but there is not much of interest in the town. It is built right against high, steep hills (almost mountains) with a great deal of rock showing white uncovered by vegetation. I suppose the early town grew in that position for protection.
Tuesday 31st May
Caught train from Cavaillon at 8.35 - taxi to station. Avignon is about 20kms away, but apparently train takes a circuitous route, because it stopped at at least 12 stations, all very small villages. Fruit and vegetable growing everywhere. Wind breaks of conifers break up the ground into fairly small paddocks. Fruit trees are planted twice as close as in A, and pruned lower - I would say all picking would be dine without a ladder. Bamboo often used as supports for plants or covering and surprisingly a good deal of bamboo is planted. Nearer to Avignon if was used in several places as wind breaks (growing). The train passed thro' quite a long tunnel - must have been a few hundred metres. Coming from Sens to Lyon, we passed though several, and I would say one was pretty close to a kilometre or more long. Apparently the French are good at this, because in Paris, from Ch de G. airport to the Gare de Lyon, we passed through at least 2 quite long underground roads.
When we got to Avignon we went to the Tourist Bureau (right at the gate, built into the postern of the wall) and booked into the Hotel du Dalais des Papes, 73 F per night. It overlooks the main street and a square given over to outdoor cafe's. there must be about 6 or 7, with the tables in the square on the other side of the footpath.
The place is full of tourist, mostly French. We saw at least 2 tourist buses (Amex) pull in, unload their customers, who did about a 2 hour run of the town, including lunch & then off to the next port of call. There are nearly as many pigeons as travellers, so tame you nearly step on them, so fat they can scarcely get out of your way.
Wednesday 1/6/77
Our big task today was to make people understand that what we were looking for was a laundromat. We eventually found one and managed to use it.
Thursday 2/6/77
Went on a all day tour by bus (SNCF) F32-50 each, to St Remy (Frederick Mistral) Les Baux, Arles, Tarascon, Abbaye de Frigolet.
Near St Remy a Roman town is being excavated - was destroyed in the 3rd century by invaders. Nearby are 2 monuments which were not damaged, one a cenotaph, the other a Roman Arch. Les Braux consists of the ruins of a fortress, ordered demolished by Louis XI. The present town is built partly incorporating some of the foundations of the old fort. The latter was largely built by digging out the rock and using the excavation fronted by walls built of the spoil.
Glanum, St Remy |
View from LaBaux
|
Lunches at Arles, a large town and chief town of Provence. Has the ruins ( being restored) of an arena and a theatre dating back to century before Christ. The arena is used for bull fights among other things.
Visited Dante's mill, but only viewed it from the outside. Inside it is a D. museum. Passed through Tarascon.
Then to L' Abbaye de St Michel de Frigolet. Begun in 10th century, added to later.The church (19th cent') is very well decorated, especially a chapel at one side. Run by a order related to Cistercians.
Friday 3rd June
Took it easy after yesterday. Walked around the area of the Palais des Papes, and to the gardens on the Rocher des Doms. Just to get a general idea of the layout. Covers a very large area, and will have to be "done" in stages later on.
Outside our window is the Bank of Paris - apparently used as a strong room rather than an ordinary branch because a couple of times an armored car has arrived. Police in cars & on motor bikes turn up, armed with rifles or sub machine guns and surround the operation. The first time , I intended photographing the scene, but firstly one, then two, finally 3 flies waved me away from my second story window. I haven't been game to try since.
Saturday 4/6
Each day a number of coaches arrive, as part of tours. A few Americans, some French, a couple of Italian, but mostly German. It is hard to estimate hour many but the average must be over 10 a day, and could be many more. Some have come and gone in the time it takes us to have lunch.
Our hotel face the Place de la Republique and is pretty noisy. There are many cafe's and bars close by, and the late departing diners are argumentative, happy, noisy and a menace to a good nights sleep - especially those who own cars, or worse still, motorbikes. At 5am the local garbos park their trucks outside our window and empty 2 large containers of rubbish. As the truck is fitted with a compressor of the garbage, this is an event which we able to follow closely each morning. In addition there are 2 striking clocks within 100 metres. Both are loud (though fairly musical) and about 2 minutes apart in time. This gives us 24 strokes at midnight. The main trouble is that if you are awake during the night and hear one clock in action, you are then on edge until the other one starts up.
It hasn't really been all that bad but we decided to move and this decision was strengthened when 6 wooden pillars were erected at our end of the square, the town seemed to have twice as many visitors for the weekend& on Saturday morning some of them started letting of crackers.
We were lucky and got a very good room, with cooking facilities in a narrow street away from the centre of town, but still handy. Hotel des Studios F96 a night. Not sure yet whether that includes.............?
Sunday 5/6
Had a very peaceful night, and an easy day. Went to Station Uvale and garden on Rocher des Doms, read the pommy papers & that was about it. Also attended mass at St Pierre about 50 metres away. 14-15th century old carvings (wooden) at door.
Monday 6/6
Around the town
Tuesday 7/6/77
Took a local bus to Fontaine du Vaucluse, about 1 hour 10 minutes thru' the local countryside. The centre of attraction there is a rive which comes from underground at the base of a long line of cliffs - the usual whitish limestone which abounds here. The flow is strong and drops down into the town, about 1/2 km away. Petrarch lived here for some 13 years, and there is a Pet' museum which we did not visit. The rive cascades down to the town, then levels out and flows peacefully away. The source of the water seems to be a bit of a mystery to the experts, which is surprising when you are told that it flow at a rate of 2 1/2 million litres a day (it varies with the season). It is a beautiful sight, both at the upper part & later when it smooths out. The town caters for tourists with souvenir stalls everywhere.
On the way back we stopped off at Isle sur la Sorgue, about 6 Kms from Fontaine. The Sorgue river (which may or may not be the one emerging at Fontaine) divides at the town & one branch flows right through it. It has been channeled, and covered in part to form the 2 squares of the town. Apart from the water there is nothing much to distinguish it from any other similar place, but the whole effect is most impressive and very pretty.
The building of the Caisse Epargne ( looks like an old family home) is set near a small bridge & on the channel & is very striking. The church is 14th & 17th century, and looks it's age. There was a scaffold erected inside, so perhaps they are trying to preserve it. Two men were working, but I could not see what they were doing. Highly decorated inside, many paintings, wood carvings & a tapestry. To my amateur eye, the whole works looked like it would be worth about a million dollars, but it just sits there as it has done for some hundreds of years.
When we left Sens, noticed that the further south we came, the more common became the Roman type tile rather than the Marseilles type. In Avignon and surround it would be 20:1.
Wednesday 8/6/77
Weather was overcast, with a little rain, tho' not cold, so rather than sit around took a local bus to Nimes. A large town, and said to have the best preserved Roman ruins in the world. Saw the arena & temple of Diana only.Theatre is supposed to be very good & well preserved. Arena is same size as Arles, but much better preserved. Is used& saw ads for bull fights and the Harlem Globetrotters as future attractions there. Daudet was born in Nimes. The main street has a double row of trees on either side, of course this cuts down the width of road for cars, but the admirable French attitude seems to be "too bad!"
The local buses are good, fast & comfortable, and the roads are good. All the small villages seem to be served by a frequent service. The red (Flanders) poppies are everywhere between here and Sens and so is the yellow broom. Near Nimes the land is not so densely cultivated as around here, there being more open paddocks. A lot of vine though & fruit. Saw a couple of plantations of pears where the trees were trained espalier fashion, along wires as the grapes are.
More loose dogs here that at Sens where apparently (& wisely) they are much stricter. All the same, more dogs on leads than in Aus.
When we came home, at about 5.30, were told we would have to leave hotel, as apparently there was some mix-up over booking.
Thursday 9/6
Moved to Hotel Henry IV (71F with dg) Geraniums very common as window boxes. Next most popular seem to be Petunias & Aucuba Japonica Veregata; but geraniums are well out in front. Sprengeri roses also. Avignon seems to be a centre for conferences. At present there is one connected with football & one on Caisse Epergne has just concluded. The consistory of the Palais des Papes is used for some such meetings.
The weather rainy today, but not cold. Up to yesterday it has been ideal - warm, calm, not humid - much the same as Sunshine Coast is Aus.
On Tuesday's trip, passed thro' Tarascon - a quite large industrial town. Completely different from the picture in my mind as a result of reading "Tatarin".
Friday 10/6
Rill & Noel, Paddy arrived this afternoon. As a result of a telegram from Rill on Thursday, we left our address at Poste Restante. Went out with them to camping ground (on the island quite close).
Eileen on left & Rill seated in green
Sunday 12/6
Went with Rill & C0 to Fontaine du Vaucluse, & L'Isle sur la Sorgue.
Monday 13/6
We all went to Les Baux, St Remy (Roman ruins).
Tuesday 14/6
Arles with Rill & Co. Then on to Saintes Maries de la Mer, through Camargue country. Saw the Mediterranean for the first time - a real tourist beach, dozens of souvenir shops, poor sand, but fine sun. The Camargue is famous for it's horse beef. It is swampy country, & much rice is grown.
Wednesday 15/6
Rill & Co had to put van into garage (a noise developed on the way home from Arles) something to do with the brakes - I think a new drum was needed, which had to be sent away for. Van won't be ready until Friday. We entertained them each day & they were glad to use our room for some of the time.
Thursday 16/6
Rill & I went to the Calvet Museum where they have quite a good collection of paintings.I liked better the building they were housed in - an old Hotel particularly tiled floors, huge rooms, a court yard garden (& 3 peacocks). They show some pottery dating back 2000BC, found when excavating for the car park underground, 900 cars, under the Palais des Papes.
Friday 17/6
The van was collected at about 5pm, we said our goodbyes so they could get away as early as possible the next day (won't be too early, on past performances).
Saturday 18/6
Had to move to another room, same hotel. 1 floor lower, bigger, better (own toilet, which the other lacked) 106F per night.
Monday 20/6
Booked train to Barcelona for tomorrow. Later found we could not book accommodation in B, and as we would not arrive until 10pm it could be risky. Decided against going - mainly as a result of our experience the first night in Avignon.
Tuesday 21/6
Got our money back from SNCF ( less booking fee) and booked seats on the Air France for England from Marseilles on Friday ($270 for two).
Took bus to Orange, smallish place about the size of Sens. Much more open with several large squares (mostly used for parking). Saw theatre, much more in tact than Arles, and arch. Half the heavy trucks in France must go through the town - the noise in some streets is deafening, with trucks bumper to bumper.
Wednesday 22/6
Crowd in Avignon getting bigger. Increase in cars & motor bikes - especially high-revving drivers. Schools end at end of this week and more school kids, young & old, moving into the town. Also more school excursions. Always one or two beggars around, men and women.
Went over to Palais des Papes - well worth while. Newer part Gothic and more spacious (especially wider) but even the old part has very large rooms and halls.
Thursday 23/6
Arranged for PO to forward mail to Com' Bank in London, I bought train tickets to Marseilles (F50 for 2, 2nd class)
Friday 24/6
Train to Marseilles bus to Airport, missed plane. This was due to a succession of minor things which all added up to us being left. The train was a little late, we went to the wrong luggage check in, & when we were sent to the boarding gate, no-one seemed to know what to do. Two children whose mother was sending them to England alone (about 8 & 12) also missed out. Eileen got talking to her, and she arranged for a friend who was with her to give us a lift to Aix, about 20kms away and bring us back in the following evening to catch the next days plane. The mother was going to Brussels Friday night & the friend was taking the daughters home and bringing them back to catch the plane with us. The fiend (Brigette) was very pleasant and helpful. She drove us to the Mars d' Entremont Hotel, where we had a very unusual unit, quite luxurious, looking onto a garden, from which there was a view over the valley. F160 with breakfast - higher than we usually paid, but worth it.
Saturday 25/6
Caught a taxi to Aix and walked around it. A nice spacious town with a double row of trees down each side of the maid street. Wider street than Sens or Avignon, less traffic (or less noticeable on a/c of wider streets). Not much industry apparently. Brigette picked us up about 5, the plane (Caravelle) left at 7.10 (half empty) and then direct to London, arriving at 8 o'clock local time. Eileen looked after the two girls& handed them over to friends with whom they were to stay. There was an accommodation desk at Heathrow, they advised the Heathrow Hotel, reached by direct phone, & I booked a room. There was a bus supplied to the hotel which is just outside the airport and enormous. Surprisingly quiet, and at 33 Pounds ($55) without breakfast we were really slugged, but we weren't concerned because it was all worry free.
Sunday 26/6
In spite of the language - which was never a real problem, especially for Eileen - France was extremely good. The weather was ideal, there was always something of interest to see and the French seem to have developed the "quality of life" that we talk so much about in Australia & something worth while. In lots of ways their approach seems haphazard, but also seems to lead to relaxed living, especially where meals are concerned.
A bus (stuffed) took us to London in about an hour. took a taxi to Paddington Station (I had previously rang the railways) and caught a train at 1.55. Had to get off at Sivindar (?) and change to a bus because of work on the line. Apparently they are sensible enough to do maintenance work on the lines on Sundays. Asked a taxi driver to take us to a likely hotel, booked in at his first port of call. No bath or toilet but moved into another room the next day. This had toilet, bath (no shower in the place) and opened onto the back garden, which does not seem to be used by anyone else. Richmond Hotel, B&B 12.50 Pounds.
Monday 27/6
Bath is a fine town with wide streets, all buildings in the same style but with enough differences to be interesting, no industrial development. Full of tourists.
Traveling from Heathrow to central London, what his the eye most was the sameness of so many groups of houses. In France it was probably much the same bur did not seem as obvious. Maybe color - the lighter color of stone used in France - but I think the French went in for minor variations on adjacent houses, & I am pretty sure that the basic shape - the proportions - had a lot to do with it. Tp me the English suburban and village houses just seen ugly (the industrial brick ones I am referring to).
Tuesday 28/6
Booked this room for another week. Asked a woman directions today, she gave them, then said "You are from Australia aren't you? She had been in Canberra for 3 years, her husband was with British high Commissioner. She was most enthusiastic about A, has tears i her eyes when she spoke about it, "detached house, fruit trees in your own yard"
Went on a bus tour of the city of bath, very interesting, impressive place. The big thing about it is that there was nothing make shift or haphazard about its buildings. it was built over a short period (about 100 years apparently) so it is all in one style. Buildings were for the wealthy so were designed to fit in with existing ones and enhance the general picture. In addition, whole blocks, sometimes whole streets, were designed as a unit by architects. There is plenty of varied ornamentation but is all in a retrained classical style.
Saw some gum trees planted in one of the gardens. Discussed then with the gardener who told us they were Eucalyptus trees, not Gum trees.
Friday 1/7/77
Went on bus tour to Stonehenge, Marlborough and Avebury. Stonehenge was a bit of an anticlimax - seen and read so much about it that it seemed nothing much when I saw it. An enormous crowd, dozens of tourist coaches. so apparently everyone feels as we did, that it should be seen. A large amount of barbed wire about, used by the police to hold back the "hippies" on mid summers day, when they were expecting trouble after last years turn. Avebury has a small number of stones (smaller in size too) arranged in a different manner & older. At Silbury saw a hill man made about the same time, reason unknown. Not just soil, but boil over a build up of chalk laid out by the builders.
On Thursday we went on a tour of the Cotswold hills a & villages. A few thatched cottages, narrow streets, just wide enough to take the bus, hills fairly low, and everything green as could be.
Saturday 2/7
Took it easy. In the morning at Abbey churchyard was used for a display by the Sea Cadets. In the afternoon there was a display by Morris dancers from all around the district. Different costumes for different villages all men. Some with clogs, some with sticks used in dances, some ancients & a couple of 10 year old boys. It was well worth watching. In the evening there was folk dancing for all in the gardens.
Sunday 3/7
Went to wells by local bus. The cathedral complex is very large (about 12th century) include bishops palace & vicars close & other buildings. Church land along the moat is grassed & open to the public. King Charles's Parlor Inn for lunch. On trip to Stonehenge saw quite a number of thatched roofs, including some pubs and a post office. It seems not to be confined to a few people who try to keep the old style going,but is accepted by some as the normal thing.
Wherever we have gone, have seen a lot of mowing and bailing of hay - presuming because of hand feeding in winter. Much more feed would be required than in Aus.
Everywhere is a small tree or large bush with a white flower. it is as ubiquitous as the broom in France. We are told that it is elderberry, from the berries of which the wine is made. Often see growing in paddocks (fields?) trees of regular shape which would be highly prized in A as "specimen" trees. Here regular shape is very common. Plenty of wild flowers, more varied types than in France.
Monday 4/7
Went to London by train, Paddington, then by underground (which isn't always under) to Com'wealth Bank. Bought travelers' cheques from bank a/c and got them to check up on Paris money. 5 pounds to claim mail & then there wasn't any.
Tuesday 5/7
Rang Patricia, about 5 minutes delay. Everything at home is OK, she told me that the bank informed her they had transferred the money to the wrong bank in Paris. Rang London to tell them & rang Exeter to book a room for tomorrow night.
Went on local bus to Bradford on Avon which Eileen had visited yesterday. No tourists, almost unspoiled, very old Saxon church & tithe barn, very picturesque. Two girls, one of whom E had met yesterday, acted as guides, very friendly & at ease.
Last 3 days have been very warm, after a pretty cool beginning to our stay here. Saw the Dog Toilet in one of the public gardens.
Wednesday 6/7/77
9 weeks, two days since we left Melbourne. By bus (coach) to Exeter, where it was lucky we had a booking. Tomorrow is graduation day at the uni and booking is very heavy - proud parents I suppose.
Stayed at Elizabethan Hotel (private). They could give us only one night. Booked into another small place, Regent park Hotel, which was very noisy from passing traffic.
7/7
Took the local bus to Sidmouth, liked the place, and booked in at a B&B for 3 days starting Friday. Wed & Thursday ate at an Italian restaurant - very good - Eileen asked for our empty Chianti bottle. The English are just as keen on wallpaper as the French. Much more popular than in A. Also like the French they accept handicapped people more than we do. In France I saw a cripple and a one handed man in semi-government jobs. Here there are special parking bays for cars of handicapped , some public buildings have notices such as "H" capp', ring for help if door is stepped, special toilets are provided in some places.
Friday
Took taxi to Sidmouth (4 pounds). Weather very warm, with a pleasant breeze. Seems a nice town, very few tourists (foreign) but a holiday place for the Brits. Reminds me a of Melbourne beach resorts 30 years ago. Beach is pebbles, although one beach has sand - if you want to wait till low tide. Went to Connaught Gardens, which are very impressive. "Janus" Vicarage Rd.
Saturday 9/7/77
Weather not as good little sun & a little light drizzle, tho' not really cold. Took local bus to Budleigh Salterton , which we were told was better than her, but we were not impressed. One beach we saw was pebbled larger than here. To do the place justice we did not see the ain beach.
Have found out from experience both here & in France that a very good move, if staying anytime in a town, is to buy a copy of the local scheduled bus services. You can always organize short trips in interesting places. Both countries are very well served by buses.
In a glass case down by the Promenade was a barometer (aneroid) with a needle & revolving drum. I can't really imagine it lasting in A. There seems to be far less vandalism, here & in France than at home (Football / train vandalism very common here a few years ago has been cut to less that 1/4). We haven't been in capital cities, maybe that has some bearing on it.
River Sed, behind Janus |
Sunday 6/7
Still at "Janus". Bus tour to West Bay, apparently a very popular beach resort for the Poms, tho' God knows why. Cars practically on to the beach (so called - pebbles) rows of stalls selling fairy floss, cockles & mussels etc, and people everywhere. The water looked good, but the place had no appeal for us, or even for the English people on our bus. Went through Lyme Regis which looked reasonably interesting, & a small village, mostly thatched, called Chideock which looked attractive. The country we went through (into Dorset) was more hilly than we have seen, with more scattered villages.
Plenty of caravan parks - more than anywhere else, mostly open, tho' with trees around them. Dined at The Old Ship Inn - 15th century, 3 foot walls.
Monday 11/7/77
Took it easy with a bad back - brought on yesterday while putting on a jumper, believe it or not.
Tuesday 12/7
Weather poor - a little rain, coldish. Went by local bus to Bicton Gardens.
Wednesday 13/7
Weather still poor. Went to Exeter, but came back after lunch. Had been going to in for a while but decided against it. Bought the AA book of hotels, rang up 4 in London which were all booked out. Considered Wales.
Thursday 14/7
Decided on oxford. Bus to Exeter, left at 11:30 for Cheltenham arriving about 2. Oxford bus left at 2:30, arriving Oxford 3: 45 (Fare
£9 the two) Oxford booked out, a taxi toured us around, finished up at B&B place, the Victoria. Wednesday was ten weeks since we left Melb'. Had about $50 left out of the $3000 we started with. Victoria in Abingdon Rd, £4 ea).
Friday
Bus tour of the town, including entry into 2 colleges, Christchurch and Radcliffe.
Sat & Sun 16 & 17/7
Around the town, still at the Victoria. Booked a week in London from 1st August. The colleges are very large, and they have parks and playing fields and "meadows" along the river as well. All are different in size & layout and detail, even tho' all are based on quadrangles with living quarters, chapel, library and eating hall.
Plenty of tourists, many Germans & French. Have eaten in a few a the small pubs. Don't think much of the beer, but the cider is good. Draught cider is even cooled.
Sunday night: concert, organ and brass in chapel of New College.
Monday 18/7
Blenheim Palace at Woodstock. Marvelous interior and gardens, but the large buildings ruined by too heavy and too ornate decoration. Without then the building would probably be fine. A great deal of time & space given to Winston Churchill - including the bed he was born in, a lock of his hair (!) and recorded speeches.
Tuesday 19/7
Oxford Museum which shows the development of Oxford. Ashmolean Museum (in the town but a uni' one) which contains a very large variety of exhibits - Roman, Egyptian, Chinese & European paintings, furniture, china etc.
Wednesday 20/7
Found a park behind the house, alongside a lake. At the end of it was the "something or other Allotment Assoc'. Locals had got together , fenced an area, each had taken a plot & vegetables were grown & a few flowers. Water from the lake. Many of the houses have no garden room of course.
Thursday 21/7
Moved to Linton Lodge Hotel, other side of town. Own shower/toilet £19 & vat including continental breakfast.
Friday 22/7
Went to London (£3) to collect mail - from Rill, Carol, Denis , Patricia, Pasty, Mrs. Cousins, Eileen stayed behind & did some shopping.
Saturday 23/7
Local bus to Whitnay Big "Church Green" Buttercross (17th cent')
purpose & origin unknown. Old houses stone, all over.
Sunday 25/7
Day of rest
Monday 26/7
We have to leave Linton Lodge tomorrow, we could get only 5 days. have booked into Cotswold Lodge from Thursday a couple of blocks away until nest Monday, when we leave for London. However, we are so far homeless for 2 days. Local bus to Burford, where we booked into a pub "The Corner House" for Tuesday & Wednesday
(£10 with breakfast) We have had dinner at the Cotswold Lodge & it seems very good - certainly the food & service were much better. Cars are banned from the centre of Oxford - only taxis & buses. I don't know about bikes during term as it is vacation at present.
Tuesday
Left 2 cases at Cotswold Lodge and took small luggage to Burford , The Corner House, B&B (£5 each) Town is old, practically no new buildings, population 1800.
Wednesday 28/7
12 weeks since Melbourne. Church here was scene of execution by 3 of the Levellers (mutineers). Bullet marks still to be seen on church wall. One of the L's, while they were imprisoned in the church, scratched his name, "prisner" & date on the baptism font - still there. Several pubs dating back to the 16th century still in use. Antique shops abound, as do tourists but latter never leave the main street.
Thursday 28/7
Bus to Oxford, took up residence at Cotswold Lodge.
Friday 29 /Sat 30/7
Weather the best since we have been here, especially Sat'. Degree conferring of Sat', streets full of proud parents and graduates in their gowns. Botanical Gardens interesting - run by uni. Beds of plants of same family e.g. onions in the bed of lilies. Continuous work seems to be necessary on the college buildings - apparently the sandstone weathers and crumbles.
Sunday 31/7
Went bus tour to Cirencester.
Monday 8/1
Train to London. Grosvenor Court Hotel, next to Paddington Station. (£16 B&B, bath,toilet) Weather the hottest we have had, I would say. The trouble with ward weather here is that it is v. humid.
Since being in England I increased respect for Melbourne papers. They are pretty much "rags" here.
Tuesday & Wednesday
Went to bank to collect mail. Walked down to Hyde Park & Kensington Gardens.
Thursday
Went by bus to bank, UTA & Qantas & booked flight tomorrow at 9:30pm. On the way saw Piccadilly, Oxford Circus, Trafalgar Square, Berkeley Square, walked down Bond St (old & new) .... Erol, Nelson's stature & the lions which are much bigger than I imagined.
Friday 5/8
Took a bus to it's depot, passed the same way as before to Strand, then to Poplar, passing through St Paul's, National P or Tait Gallery, St Martin in the Fields, the Old India Dock Rd, thro' rag trade area.
Caught Qantas jumbo, took off at 10. Stopped an hour each at Bahrain & Singapore, reached Sydney Sunday morning at 6:30, Melbourne about 9:30.
Tuesday
Left 2 cases at Cotswold Lodge and took small luggage to Burford , The Corner House, B&B (£5 each) Town is old, practically no new buildings, population 1800.
Wednesday 28/7
12 weeks since Melbourne. Church here was scene of execution by 3 of the Levellers (mutineers). Bullet marks still to be seen on church wall. One of the L's, while they were imprisoned in the church, scratched his name, "prisner" & date on the baptism font - still there. Several pubs dating back to the 16th century still in use. Antique shops abound, as do tourists but latter never leave the main street.
Thursday 28/7
Bus to Oxford, took up residence at Cotswold Lodge.
Friday 29 /Sat 30/7
Weather the best since we have been here, especially Sat'. Degree conferring of Sat', streets full of proud parents and graduates in their gowns. Botanical Gardens interesting - run by uni. Beds of plants of same family e.g. onions in the bed of lilies. Continuous work seems to be necessary on the college buildings - apparently the sandstone weathers and crumbles.
Sunday 31/7
Went bus tour to Cirencester.
Monday 8/1
Train to London. Grosvenor Court Hotel, next to Paddington Station. (£16 B&B, bath,toilet) Weather the hottest we have had, I would say. The trouble with ward weather here is that it is v. humid.
Since being in England I increased respect for Melbourne papers. They are pretty much "rags" here.
Tuesday & Wednesday
Went to bank to collect mail. Walked down to Hyde Park & Kensington Gardens.
Thursday
Went by bus to bank, UTA & Qantas & booked flight tomorrow at 9:30pm. On the way saw Piccadilly, Oxford Circus, Trafalgar Square, Berkeley Square, walked down Bond St (old & new) .... Erol, Nelson's stature & the lions which are much bigger than I imagined.
Friday 5/8
Took a bus to it's depot, passed the same way as before to Strand, then to Poplar, passing through St Paul's, National P or Tait Gallery, St Martin in the Fields, the Old India Dock Rd, thro' rag trade area.
Caught Qantas jumbo, took off at 10. Stopped an hour each at Bahrain & Singapore, reached Sydney Sunday morning at 6:30, Melbourne about 9:30.